A Wind Guide to Çeşme: Which Bays Stay Calm When the Meltem Blows?

What surprises first-time visitors to Çeşme most is the wind. In July and August a north wind blows across the peninsula almost every day, making Alaçatı one of the world's leading windsurfing centres; but the same wind can be a nuisance when you are planning a beach day. Knowing which bay is calm, and when, makes a Çeşme holiday far more enjoyable.

The north wind: meltem and poyraz

In the Aegean this summer north wind is called the meltem, known internationally as the etesian winds. It usually begins to strengthen before noon, peaks in the afternoon and eases towards evening, sometimes reaching force 5 – 6. When it blows, the sea on the peninsula's north-facing shores is choppy and the water cooler.

Why is the south coast calm?

Altınkum lies in a bay on the peninsula's south coast with its back to the north wind. Because the wind blows from land to sea, it doesn't build waves at the shore, and the sea is calm and clear on most days. That is why, when the meltem is strong, Altınkum and the neighbouring southern bays are the best choice for families and swimmers.

Lodos days

Less often, especially in spring and autumn, the southwesterly lodos blows. Then the picture reverses: the south coast gets waves and the northern bays calm down. When the lodos blows we may raise a yellow or red flag at Altınkum; on those days your dated ticket is moved to another day free of charge.

How to read a wind forecast

• Check the direction: north (N, NE, NW) is good news for the south coast.
• Check the speed in Beaufort or knots: below force 4 suits every shore.
• Look at the hourly forecast: the meltem is usually strongest from 12:00 to 17:00.
• If waves are above 0.5 metres, take care swimming with children.

Morning or afternoon?

In windy spells the morning is the calmest time on any shore. We suggest early guests swim before noon and spend the harshest midday hours in the shade. Towards sunset the wind drops and the terrace enjoys the best hours of the day.

Every morning at 09:00 we share the beach's flag status and the day's wind forecast in our Instagram stories, so take a look before you set out.

The upside of the wind

The meltem is not just an obstacle; it also softens the stifling heat of the Aegean summer. On windy days the beach feels cool even when the temperature is high, and midday is easier to bear. When the meltem drops in the late afternoon it also clears the sky, and Çeşme's famous clear sunsets often follow windy days. If you want to try windsurfing or kitesurfing, the schools in Alaçatı, 20 minutes from Altınkum, are the liveliest places on a windy day.